On September 29, 2026, Vogue published “All Hail the Chicory—The Most Wonderful Thing You Can Put On Your Plate”, an article by journalist Tamar Adler dedicated to the world of Italian chicories, their history, and the extraordinary variety of shapes, colors, and flavors that characterize these vegetables. A journey through Veneto, radicchio fields, and cuisine, which also led to the discovery of the work of Smarties.bio.
It all began a few months earlier, when Tamar contacted us to tell us about the editorial project she was working on for Vogue. After receiving a recommendation from Lane Selman, Oregon State University, leader of the Culinary Breeding Network project and co-author of the book “Radicchio: A Celebration of the Beloved Italian Vegetable”, to meet Andrea from Smarties.bio, the journalist wrote to us to arrange a visit. We immediately made ourselves available, offering to accompany her to the production fields and show her our work up close. That first contact led to a meeting that allowed Tamar to discover the world of chicories through our work, local cultivation practices, and cuisine. The visit turned into a journey through agriculture, varietal selection, and gastronomy: from a radicchio-based lunch at Cappello restaurant (in Rosolina) to dinner at Aloha restaurant (in Chioggia), with stops at the fields in Chioggia and a tasting dedicated to the different varieties at Namelaka Caffè & Bakery.
From the origins of chicory to the extraordinary diversity of radicchio
One of the article’s central themes is the history of chicory (Cichorium intybus), a species that includes very different types, from Catalogna and Cicoria Rossa di Chioggia to the many varieties of radicchio cultivated in Italy.
During her journey, Tamar was able to understand how the plants we recognise today for their compact heads, white ribs and red or variegated leaves are the result of a long process of selection and transformation. Wild chicory, already mentioned in accounts from antiquity, had very different characteristics from those we appreciate today. Through the work of farmers and the selection of plants, increasingly distinctive varieties emerged over time, suited to different growing conditions and culinary uses.
From Cicoria Rossa di Chioggia, with its round, compact head, to the elongated shape of Cicoria Rossa di Treviso Precoce, and on to Tardivo, with its characteristic curled leaves, each type has distinctive qualities that make it unique. This diversity results from the interaction between genetics, the environment and agricultural knowledge. It is also what makes the world of chicories so fascinating for those of us who work in varietal selection every day.
In the fields of Chioggia, discovering Smarties.bio’s work
Tamar’s visit continues in Chioggia, the birthplace of Cicoria Rossa di Chioggia and a place where the cultivation of these varieties is deeply intertwined with local agricultural history.
Here, we take the journalist through the fields and varietal trials, showing her just how complex the selection process can be: behind a single commercial name, there may be several different varieties, each developed to meet specific growing conditions and different production requirements.
In our experimental fields, the journalist takes a close look at the Cicoria Rossa di Chioggia varieties—Vesuvio, Stromboli and Teide—and those of Cicoria Rossa di Verona, including Alpone and Pasqualino.
The differences between these varieties go beyond their outward appearance. Each selection is designed for specific sowing, growing and harvesting conditions, with characteristics that respond to producers’ needs.
As Tamar’s account shows, chicory selection also presents particular challenges. These plants tend to cross-pollinate, a natural mechanism that promotes genetic diversity but makes it more difficult to obtain uniform lines and maintain stable, desirable characteristics.
Our work therefore involves constantly balancing diversity and selection: preserving the identity of the different types while developing varieties capable of meeting the needs of contemporary agriculture.
Varietal innovation: radicchio beyond traditional growing cycles
Another aspect covered in the article is the possibility of growing certain types of radicchio outside the periods traditionally associated with their production.
Developing varieties suited to different growing cycles gives farmers greater flexibility in planning their crops and helps them meet specific production requirements. This work calls for experience, experimentation and careful assessment of how plants behave under different environmental conditions.
Radicchio thus continues to evolve without losing its connection to the land and the agricultural traditions from which it originates.
Forcing and blanching: the techniques behind Cicoria Rossa di Treviso Tardivo
Another important part of the article focuses on the techniques that help define the characteristics of Cicoria Rossa di Treviso Tardivo, one of the most distinctive and recognisable types of Italian vegetables.
Its production involves a forcing and blanching stage. After being grown in the field, the plants are harvested with their roots and transferred to controlled conditions, sheltered from light. During this phase, they continue to grow and develop the elongated, curled leaves characteristic of Tardivo. The absence of light limits chlorophyll development and helps alter the leaves’ characteristics and flavour profile. The techniques used after harvesting are therefore essential to obtaining the product that eventually reaches our tables.
As we explain to Tamar during the visit, radicchio is not the result of genetics alone: its final characteristics also depend on how the plant is grown, harvested and processed.
From field to table: a tasting dedicated to the different varieties
Tamar Adler’s journey continues at the table, where the differences observed in the fields become a gastronomic experience. The day after the visit, at Namelaka Caffè & Bakery in Campagna Lupia, chef Michael Trolese prepares a five-course menu dedicated to the different types of radicchio, showcasing their flavours and textures through a variety of preparations.
The experience begins with a small salad of Cicoria Variegata di Castelfranco, served with crostini, goat’s cheese, egg and toasted walnuts. The crispness of the leaves and the variety’s delicate notes offer an initial example of how radicchio can also be enjoyed in simple preparations, where the quality of the ingredient remains at the forefront.
Next come rolls of Cicoria Rossa di Treviso Precoce with Asiago cheese and pancetta, followed by a beef tartare served with Cicoria Rossa di Chioggia, cooked and seasoned with balsamic vinegar. The menu continues with risotto with Tardivo and smoked provola fondue, followed by veal cheek braised in Amarone, accompanied by grilled radicchio.
The different courses show how the characteristics of chicories can vary considerably depending on the variety and the preparation method. Their distinctive bitterness combines with the sweetness that develops during cooking and with ingredients that create contrasts in flavour and texture.
The story does not end with the visit. Tamar takes some varieties home with her and, once back, experiments with them in her own kitchen, preparing new recipes using chicories from Treviso, Chioggia and Castelfranco. This adds another dimension to the article: radicchio, rooted in a deeply local agricultural history, can also become a source of inspiration far beyond its place of origin.
Sharing biodiversity, celebrating the local area
Vogue’s article offers a view of the world of chicories that goes beyond gastronomy. It tells a story of selection, experimentation, growing techniques and knowledge passed down over time, highlighting the role of the people who help keep this diversity alive.
For Smarties.bio, being part of this feature means sharing the value of our daily work with different varieties and introducing an international audience to the agricultural heritage of Chioggia and Veneto. It also means showing how tradition can continue to evolve through research and varietal innovation. We are delighted that our work has been featured in an international story dedicated to a product so representative of the area in which we operate. Tamar Adler’s article shows just how much there is still to discover about chicories, and how important it is to continue studying, growing and sharing them.
Read the full article in Vogue: All Hail the Chicory—The Most Wonderful Thing You Can Put On Your Plate.